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tacular, but the greatest attraction for me is tions are not required, but it is well worth a visit. This homey wine bar, which serves excellent
the Loiseau approach to wine. It is one of the If budget is of concern, the modest but well bistro faire, offers more than 20 Burgundies
few restaurants or wine bars in France where appointed La Grilladine, a half-block from by the glass, most of them village wines, rang-
it is possible to enjoy grand cru Burgundy by Le Cep, offers several menu options that are ing anywhere from 4 to 12 euros per glass,
the glass. I indulged and ordered a magnifi- attractive. I recently chose its 23-euro dinner which is a four-to-five ounce pour. On a recent
cent 2009 Armand Rousseau Charmes Cham- that included salmon tartare, beef bourgui- visit I also enjoyed a 1972 Armagnac for 10
bertin Grand Cru for 20 euros. I also took the gnon and a cheese plate. With a half-bottle of euros.
wine pairings for each course, chosen by the Pernand Vergelesses Premier Cru I got out for On the other side of Place Carnot you will
sommelier, for an additional 45 euros.
less than 50 euros, including tax and tip. find the hip, modern La Part des Anges (the
On the same visit, I had dinner one evening at I've also had similar experiences at the modest Angel's share) with equally good prices on the
Le Beneton, another Michelin one-star, and or- Le Conty, which, like the others, is mere steps wines by the glass, and an array of tapas that
dered a la carte. Le Beneton was equally innova- from Place Carnot in the center of the village. pair nicely with the wines. La Part des Anges
tive and dazzling, but twice the price. also steps outside the Burgundy box occasion-
And a bit further from the center of the vil- ally. The bar was pouring a South African Sau-
Michelin stars aside, my favorite restaurant in lage on Rue Faubourg Madelaine is Cave Mad- vignon Blanc and a dry red blend from Portu-
Beaune is Caveau des Arches. It is listed in the elaine, serving up the ultimate in Burgundian gal on my last visit.
Michelin guide without a star, but the cuisine, comfort food paired with an extensive selec-
perhaps a bit more traditional than Loiseau tion of wines from Burgundy and the rest of So, when in Beaune, do as I do, and you will
and Le Beneton, is exceptional and the wine France. neither starve nor go thirsty.
list one of the finest in the village (though that Top: The restaurant Caveau des Arches housed in
distinction may be held by the small, charming Of course, no visit to Beaune would be com- ancient walls. Opposite top: The Hôtel-Dieu, with
Ma Cuisine). plete without a stop at one of its better wine flamboyant glazed roofs, lined with geometric
bars.
Caveau des Arches recently added a casual din- figures. Opposite below: Hotel Le Cep dining room.
ing space upstairs from the main dining room My favorite for lo these many years has been
in the "cave." The menu is limited, and reserva- Le Bistrot Bourguignon, near Place Carnot.

Wine Dine & Travel Spring 2014 93