Page 85 - WDT Winter 2018 japan

hen someone first mentioned an Izakaya
bar to me, it sounded like a book in the Old
Testament. My mind’s eye pictured a bunch
of old men in a small, dimly lit room putting
Waway kosher wine. But this was Japan, and
an izakaya is a cross between your neighborhood watering hole
and a tapas bar without the Spanish plates. They are usually tiny
affairs that serve cheap drinks and small plates or bowls of Japa-
nese comfort food where the locals gather with friends to blow
off a little steam after a hard day in the office.
Most Izakayas serve a variety of tasty bites that go well with
beer and sake. Favorites include seafood raw and cooked, yaki-
tori, and oden (potatoes, vegetables, eggs, octopus and other
things boiled in a broth). But our first izakaya had an extensive
list of cooked and non-cooked goodies that Westerners can
enjoy. Some izakayas also serve a quaffable imported wine for
500 to 700 yen – usually one red and one white.
The only problem is that izakaya can be a bit intimidating
for rookies. Standing outside some and looking in brings back
memories of the song “Green Door” – “Green door, what’s that
secret you’re keeping?” They seem mysterious, with their odd
hours and lack of English signage and menus. Perhaps this
keeps the regulars happy and discourages tourists. But most of
the time they welcome friendly and thirsty visitors from down
the block or across the ocean.
Sometimes there is a 200-300 yen cover charge which
pays for a small appetizer when you order your first drink. We
tried our first izakaya in Takayama and had a blast; you’ll find lots
of affable locals and more than a few fun-loving travelers ready
to tell tales. Ask your hotel desk clerk for suggestions for nearby
friendly izakaya. If there’s a hostel nearby, stop in for its recom-
mended list. Young travelers on a budget love them.

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