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In my ancestor’s footsteps




              The phone call came when I was al‐
          ready in Châlons-en-Champagne.
              “Madame,” said a deep voice at the
          other end. “We will be waiting for you in
          Rosières on Wednesday at 11AM.”
              “Merci monsieur!” I couldn’t hide my ex‐
          citement.
              On the appointed day, my niece and I
          followed Google maps’ mangled Franglish
          directions two hours and thirty minutes
          east of Châlons, across fields of undulating
          mustard flowers. M. le maire and members
          of his staff awaited in front of Rosières’
          mairie, city hall, where I was handed a bou‐
          quet of fresh flowers. But, as in Châlons-
          en-Champagne, first things first. A welcome
          apéritif was in order. In this case, glasses
          of local bubbly and trays of local petits
          fours.
              In between sips, mayor Philippe Jonquet
          and his colleague Philippe Bundt, filled us
          in on the town’s history. Rosières, one of
          Lorraine’s famed “villages fleuris”, flower‐
          ing villages, lies a mere 24 kilometers from
          Nancy, in the department of Meurthe et
          Moselle. The area has been inhabited since
          prehistoric times, and only after the 12th
          century did it become known for its salt
          mines, the town’s main source of income
          until Napoleon 3rd had them shut down in
          1760.
              Before the free-flowing champagne
          turned me into a weepy fool, our small del‐
          egation set off along Rue Gambetta,









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