Page 87 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SPRING 2023 SPECIAL CRUISE EDTION

stall facility, where he talked about the breed, English that explained some of the exercises we
about his riding experience (Joao has also rid- were seeing. All had fancy riding names like “pi-
den Lipizzaners at the Vienna School) and what affe,” “levade,” “courbette,” and “ballotarde.”
people were doing to prepare for the exhibi- Pretty technical stuff for the horse-challenged
tion. but not crucial. The movements playing out be-
“You’re free to talk to riders, blacksmiths, fore us were spectacular all on their own.
everybody,” said Joao. “This is backstage of a One rider would have his horse rear up on its
show.” Visitors can even pet the horses – a sur- hind legs. Another would make his mount leave
prising aspect to people used to more wary, the ground entirely, kicking out all four legs at
skittish breeds. Stroking the nose of one of the once. Meanwhile, other horses were moving
Lusitanos, I told him, “Stick with The Eques- sideways or backing up. Walking, trotting, can-
trian School, don’t get into a bull ring.” tering, rearing and jumping – a swirl of action.
Around noon, we crossed the street to the After a few minutes of these exercises, some
arena – as did some of the horses, which of the brown Lusitanos were dripping bright,
brought traffic to a halt and surprised pedestri- white sweat around their bridles and under
ans. The audience was small that day and ev- their saddle pads. Everybody in the VIP seats
erybody sat in a glassed-in VIP section at was videoing the action on their phones. A par-
ground level at one end of the arena. ticularly dramatic movement would draw ap-
Initially, two costumed riders emerged to put plause.
their Lusitanos through their paces but as the When the exhibition was finished, we
exhibition went on, the arena held as many as thanked Joao profusely. Then we headed out
seven horses at one time. Some were being rid- to a lunch of grilled sardines with an appe-
den, while others were being driven around tizer of Paige Kelly’s last words to me: “This
from the ground. It was mesmerizing, exciting. was the highlight of my time in Lisbon,” she
A three-ring circus all in one ring. said. “It made my trip.”
The exhibition was accompanied by music
and a taped narration in both Portuguese and
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