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But in this instance, the shutterbugs’ insouciant  next bridal-veil waterfall or red timber-clad home,
            subject isn’t the least bit concerned with undulat-  perched in splendid isolation like a lone cardinal in
            ing dimples peppering supernatural assets. That’s  a forest.
            because those gob-smacking, gravity-defying         For many visitors to Bergen, this bite-sized voy-
            slopes belong not to a cartoonishly curvaceous    age may be their only experience of Norway’s fa-
            celebrity, but to the extraordinary fjords of Nor-  mous fjords. That’s not because this country’s
            way.                                              craggy coast fails to intrigue, but rather because
              I’m on a three-hour journey through the Oster-  it’s so difficult to escape the gripping gravitational
            fjord, a round-trip cruise from Bergen—Norway’s   pull of this hip university city, with its picturesque
            second largest city, after Oslo---to Mostraumen,  harbor, colorful clapboard architecture, and surf-
            where brightly-painted houses cling to the water’s  and-turf Scandi scenery ranging from sea to sky-
            edge beneath fir-fringed mountains. As our ferry  skimming summits, easily accessed via a funicular
            surges through steel-blue waters, most passen-    and cable car.
            gers head to the deck, eyes straining to spot the

            Left: At Bergen’s BarBarista, your                            Above: The Fløibanen Funicular
            crazy aunt’s attic meets Day of the                           whisks you from central Bergen to
            Dead décor. Waffles are a                                     a panoramic viewpoint on Mt.
            particular specialty here. Copyright                          Fløyen. Copyright Amy
            Amy Laughinghouse.                                            Laughinghouse.


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