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s I stepped out of the shower and toweled jungle lodge called Tiger Tops. Forty years ago, the
off, the only sounds I heard were the occa- lodge, now closed, was iconic. The epitome of rus-
Asional distant call of a "barking" deer and tic romance. Its walls were of woven rattan; you
the tapping of moths against the glowing lantern sipped drinks on a verandah lit by kerosene lamps.
outside my room. When it was time to safari, you stepped off your
I was staying near the Nepal-India border at a bedroom balcony onto the back of an elephant. It
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