Page 214 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL FALL 2021 DISCOVERING SANTA FE

After taking the overnight Caledonian Sleeper “We don't have the influx of tourists here,” he
from London to Scotland, we had started our jour- commented as he drove us in his small older car,
ney in Fort William at the Alexandra Hotel, conve- Carl next to him in the front seat, and I in the back,
niently located next to the train station. We took trying to scribble notes on the bumpy ride. Despite
another train 90 minutes up the scenic coast to the cloudy rain and wind, we loved seeing the is-
Mallaig, a tiny fishing village, where we caught the land's craggy, rustic beauty. We passed a few
Caledonian MacBrayne ferry for the 80-minute drenched, waving islanders bicycling on the nar-
sail to Eigg (pronounced “egg”), ten miles off the row road.
western coast. Eigg boasts a small medical center, a few
I counted only 10 passengers onboard, including churches, a post office, one primary school with
one young woman (with a dog), wearing a back- five students, one grocery store, a museum, a cof-
pack and loaded down with two large grocery fee shop with a “wee” craft shop, and a pub/tea-
bags. There were also two vans and a few cars— room/cafe by the pier. The gift shop there sells
which belonged to residents, since “outsiders” items made by the many creatively self-employed
cannot take cars to Eigg. It's either walk, hire a residents: hand-knitted sweaters and caps (cour-
bike, hitchhike—or book Charlie's taxi when he's in tesy of the island's sheep), jewelry, purses, can-
town! dles, soap. There are also books about Eigg,
I had to laugh as I disembarked: earlier I had framed color scenic photos, T-shirts, and post-
emailed Maggie Fyffe (the colorful Isle of Eigg cards. Mail is normally delivered three days a
Trust's secretary, a 45-year resident who was fea- week. There is a smattering of guest houses, B &
tured—with Charlie--on “60 Minutes”) a photo of Bs, a hostel, self-catering venues, and yurts.
Carl and me since she was meeting us at the pier. I There's also the Laig Bay Brewing Company: I
spotted her right away, holding an umbrella, pa- Am the Eiggman is the most popular beer!
tiently waiting for us in the drizzle. Obviously with so The ferry doesn't arrive daily—and sometimes
few passengers there was no need to send the not for a week during fierce weather. That's why
photo! She had invited us for lunch at the pier cafe residents stock up on canned goods. Growing or-
after we toured the island for 45 minutes with Brian.

214 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2021