Page 218 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL FALL 2021 DISCOVERING SANTA FE

o why would I choose to bob at daybreak
on a chilly mid-February morning in the
placid waters of Laguna de Ojo de Liebre,
S 460 miles south of the US the border? To
fulfill a longstanding wish.
We left behind L.A Cetto’s acres of vineyards
south of Ensenada the day before, to cover the
120 miles south to San Quintin, one of the main
fishing centers in Baja. Mike Essary, owner of Baja
Custom Tours, had timed our arrival for lunch at
Parcela 12, a favorite truck stop for backpackers
from around the world. Inside the nondescript
wooden structure, Marina, the chef/owner stood
behind a row of simmering pots to dispense bowls
of her signature sopa de almejas, clam soup. Later
on, after exploring the scenic San Quintin beach-
front, we washed down a seafood feast at motel
Los Jardines de Baja and washed down our giant
clams with margaritas the size of small fish bowls.
Mike allowed no lingering after breakfast. We
piled into our comfortable van and headed south-
ward for our whale encounter.
I could barely contain my excitement when Mike
dropped us off at our loading “dock,” a dirt pier in
Scammon’s Lagoon outside Guerrero Negro. Al-
ready, busloads of tourists from China, Mexico,
and Brazil were lining up to board their panga.
Once our fishing vessel got underway, I under-
stood the wisdom of our tour leader who had ad-
vised us to “dress warm!” I felt as rotund as the
Michelin Tire Man, swaddled as I was in leotards,
blue jeans, a triple layer of T-shirts, a waterproof
coat, and a life jacket. A faint mist tinged with salt

218 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2021