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combo coffee and cocktail bar and the shore ex-
            cursions desk. The place buzzed too much for tran-
            quil reading on gloomy, windy days but was a good
            venue for lectures and programmed activities. The
            two pool decks were the most vibrant areas, with
            burger and pizza stands and bars featuring the
            day's tropical cocktail. Happy hours were im-
            mensely popular in the Crow's Nest and comfy
            Ocean Bar. There was plenty of entertainment,
            with staged shows, a small casino, a classical music
            stage and a pair of dueling pianists in the Billboard
            Onboard venue.
              Meals consumed large chunks of time—we're
            not used to three solids per day. Buy hey, if some-
            one else is fixing the food we'll be there. Overall,
            the Eurodam's culinary offerings were satisfying,
            plentiful and occasionally exciting. We often dined
            alone any time we wished (thanks to open seating)
            and thoroughly enjoyed Tamarind, the Asian spe-
            cialty restaurant. I learned a lot about Holland
            America's loyalty Mariners program during group
            meals in the busy dining room—all raved about
            their fondness for the exceptional crew.
              Latin Interludes
              I've spent a lot of time in Central America over
            the years and felt at home everywhere we landed.
            Our itinerary started in Cartagena, a UNESCO
            World Heritage site and the setting for some of
            Gabriel García Márquez's most mesmerizing sto-
            ries. The old walled city looked exactly as I'd ex-
            pected, exuding the tropical vibe of Havana and
            San Juan.
              I immediately searched for La Gorda Gertrudis
            (Fat Gertrude), a voluptuous bronze nude by
            famed Colombian artist Fernando Botero, and
            found her reclining in front of a church in the Plaza
            Santo Domingo. We took a coffee break at a cafe
            in the plaza, charmed by a local hoping to show us
            his friend's emerald store, and then proceeded to
            walk the streets in absolutely blistering heat
            (Cartagena's temperatures are infamous).


            Left: Fruit sellers called palenqueras await
            customers in front of a colonial-era church.
            Top: Botero's Fat Gertrude dominates a small
            plaza in the walled city.
            Bottom: Palenqueras on break




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