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The closing scene in Romancing the Stone was     got plenty of room to roam far from the busy
            set at Cartagena's imposing Castillo San Felipe    canal. Late in the day we cruised toward the Mi-
            fortress but was actually filmed in Veracruz, Mex-  raflores Locks, past the Panama Canal Visitor
            ico. The similarities were spot on as I recalled   Center where hundreds of onlookers lined the
            scenes from Veracruz in the 1980s. We lasted       four-story balconies to watch the water's dra-
            long enough to walk atop the city's stone walls    matic rise and fall. We reached the Pacific Ocean
            and along back streets, but succumbed to the hu-   as the day ended—a pretty impressive feat indeed.
            midity with time to spare.                           Sweet young girls in ruffled dresses greeted the
               The main event—the Panama Canal crossing—       ship at Corinto, Nicaragua, where the dirt streets
            was far more intriguing than I expected. I caught a  and ramshackle storefronts were reminiscent of a
            few canal documentaries on the in-room TV prior    languid Mosquito Coast backwater. We stuck
            to the crossing and brushed up on the history. We  close the port in steamy Costa Rica, where I'd
            ordered room-service coffee for our morning en-    passed much of the late 90s while writing the
            try into the canal from the Atlantic Ocean and     Traveler's Costa Rica Companion (now out of
            watched tugboats guide us into a narrow channel    print). I was reluctant to join any shore excursions
            toward the lower lock as an enormous fuel tanker   since I had the extreme good fortune to ramble
            slid toward us in the upper lock. As the water level  around the country before there were large ex-
            rose, the two vessels edged past each other with   cursions and wildlife encounters.
            smiles and waves on both sides.                      Antigua, Guatemala was the highlight on the
              As we sailed along Lake Gatun I scanned the      Pacific Coast. Locate about 90 minutes from the
            jungle for the abundant birds and monkeys I'd      port. Antigua is another UNESCO site with gor-
            seen on previous Panama adventures. But they've    geous architecture and extraordinary artisans. I'm

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