Page 186 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL FALL 2020 South Africa

“You want to try a cortado?” asked Carlos, pointing “You will love Trinidad,” he declared when we
to a roadside stand. Of course! He disappeared at were back on the road. Francisco de Narvaez, one
the back while we sipped a Cuban espresso with of the first explorers of the southern coast of
milk. He returned holding six tubes of Colgate North America, was the first to set foot in Trinidad
toothpaste. in 1527, before his exploration of La Florida.
“My supplier buys these in Miami!” he said with Nowadays, visitors from around the world flock to
a chuckle. We stretched our legs again at a road- the flower-bedecked central square to access free
side stand festooned in strands of garlic. Carlos’ wi-fi. Trinidad native Yneisy and her Italian-born
purchases done, we continued on to Cienfuegos, husband Enzo were our hosts at their family home
originally settled by French immigrants from Bor- a few minutes’ walk from the plaza. From the
deaux and Louisiana. Hostal Casa Groning (www.hostalcasagroning-
Today, the town is a center for sugar and to- .com) we ventured out on our own to explore the
bacco production. The shaded central plaza pedestrian streets lined in cobblestones originally
flanked in pastel colored colonial buildings used ballast for ships. We navigated uneven side-
brought to mind a typical zocalo. Carlos led us to walks and flooded side-streets filled with horse-
the rooftop terrace of the Palacio de Valle, an ex- drawn carts, pedicabs, and bicycles. A laid-back at-
travagant structure built in the Moorish style, to titude contributed to the tropical charm of this
sip daiquiris and take in the unobstructed view of colonial era World heritage Site. Hemingway must
the bay. have felt it too. A trio of street musicians stood in
front of La Floridita, one of the famed author’s fa-

186 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020