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BOURDAIN IN GRANADA



                Granada is most famous for three              viewpoint we share, one that always col-
            things: The Alhambra, the last stronghold         ors our travel adventures.
            and architectural marvel of the Moors                 In the Granada show, Bourdain re-
            who ruled here for nearly 700 years. The          flected on Spain. “Spain is the sort of place
            resting place of King Ferdinand and               that never really made any sense, anyway. But
            Queen Isabella, who funded Columbus’              in the very best possible way. This is the coun-
            world-changing voyages. And the tradi-            try that gave us the Spanish Inquisition. Also
            tion of serving free tapas when you order         anarchy. This is where devout Catholicism
            a drink. “This is still one of the few places     mixes surrealism and modernist cuisine with
            in Spain where they're free. All you have to      traditional tapas. Christianity and Islam traded
            do is keep                                                                         places and
            drinking,”                                                                         shared space.
            Bourdain                                                                           And the ef-
            explained in                                                                       fects and in-
            his program                                                                        fluences of all
            on Granada.                                                                        those things
                Bourdain                                                                       are right here
            visited An-                                                                        to see.”
            dalucia dur-                                                                          Bour-
            ing the                                                                            dain’s
            pageantry-                                                                         trademark
            filled Sem-                                                                        was to avoid
            ana Santa                                                                          Michelin-
            or Holy                                                                            starred
            Week, the                                                                          restaurants,
            week before Easter. Bourdain's tour guide         staged presentations, and tourist desti-
            was his close friend, cinematographer             nations. Instead, he sought out the local
            Zach Zamboni. Zach lives in Granada               markets, street vendors, and obscure
            part-time and had been begging Bourdain           restaurants to experience the food and
            to visit for a long time.                         culture enjoyed by locals. Ironically, as he
                Besides dining out, Bourdain wandered         probably found out, the once off-the-
            the streets of some popular neighbor-             beaten-path places featured in his pro-
            hoods, visited the Alhambra, and took in a        grams became tourist destinations be-
            Flamenco show in the Moorish Albaicin             cause of him. Today, they still draw
            neighborhood. For him, learning about             Bourdain pilgrims tracing his footsteps
            history and culture is the heart of his           from around the world – including us.
            travel philosophy. Food and drink, he be-             “Nighttime in Granada. And it's time to pur-
            lieved, and so vividly showed, are win-           sue that greatest of Spanish traditions, tapas.
            dows into the soul of a place. It's a







            106   WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL  2024
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