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University of Bologna, was the ideal
                                                           teacher.
                                                               On the way to Rita’s place we got to
                                                           see Bologna through the eyes of someone
                                                           who has lived there most of her life. At one
                                                           time, she pointed out, the Asinelli and
                                                           Garisenda had giant wooden structures
                                                           bolted to their sides, like tree houses. Peo-
                                                           ple lived in these appendages, which occa-
                                                           sionally collapsed into the street with the
                                                           expected casualties. We also stopped
                                                           along Via Piella and peered through the
                                                           “canal window.” Bologna, much like Venice,
                                                           once was interlaced with a system of
                                                           canals that served as sources of energy
                                                           and transport. Most of those canals have
                                                           been overbuilt with roads, but this is one
                                                           place where an old watercourse comes
                                                           into view as it funnels between multicol-
                                                           ored buildings.
                                                               Rita operates cooking classes in her
                                                           apartment, which is located within the
                                                           walls of Bologna’s old city. Vendors selling
                                                           fruit, vegetables and herbs were lined up
                                                           on her street, which seemed appropriate.
                                                           As we climbed the stairs to her place, she
                                                           explained that we were now in what was
                                                           once Bologna’s Jewish ghetto.
                                                               Rita’s place is a light-filled exemplar
                                                           of Italian design, with an emphasis on
                                                           food. We were soon wearing aprons and
                                                           mixing flour, eggs and olive oil to make
                                                           pasta for home-made tagliatelle, tortel-
                                                           loni and ravioli.




                                                            Bologna chef and teacher Rita Mattioli
                                                            presses her pasta sfoglia for tortelloni
                                                            and tagliatelle using a long wooden roller.














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