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station with the lake, where we arrive be-
            fore long.
               The Haves and the Have-Nots
               “The left-hand side of the lake is called
            the ‘Gold Coast’ thanks to its sunshine
            hours, low taxes, and high property prices,”
            Tiwari explains. “You can see beautiful
            houses and villas lining the shore. The
            other side, though, is nicknamed the ‘Snif-
            fle Coast’—for reasons you can probably
            guess,” she laughs.
               Prominently gracing the lakefront is the
            statue of Ganymede, which has become a
            symbol of Zurich’s gay community since its
            installation in 1952. Sculptor Hermann
            Hubacher immortalized man’s longing to
            reach Olympus: with his hand raised,
            Ganymede appeals to Zeus (in the form of
            an eagle) to take him there.
               Although a Swiss law decriminalizing
            homosexuality went into effect in 1942, it
            took much longer for half the population to
            gain full rights. Switzerland was one of the
            last European countries to allow women to
            vote—in 1971.
                             Free Spirits
               Next to the lake stands one of Zurich’s
            most iconic landmarks, the opera house.
            After the original building, the Aktienthe-
            ater, burned down in 1834, it was rebuilt in
            1891. During his exile from Germany,
            Richard Wagner staged many of his works
            here, including the first international per-
            formance of Parsifal.


            Clockwise: statue of Ganymede (copyright
           Wibke Carter) / the Limmat river flows through
           the city (copyright Wibke Carter) / flower bed
           at Lake Zurich (copyright Wibke Carter)
           Right:  Al fresco dining is popular in summer
           (copyright Wibke Carter)














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