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on the graves of the city’s saints, Felix and         Opposite: bird feeding at Lake Zurich /
            Regula. It later became the birthplace of             Niederdorf (copyright Zurich Tourism) / city
            the Swiss-German Reformation in the 16th              guide Ity Tiwari (copyright Wibke Carter)
            century.
               The next day, I hike up Uetliberg,
            Zurich’s local mountain. From the summit,
            the view stretches across the city, Lake
            Zurich, and—on a clear day—even to the
            Alps. In summer, it’s a popular starting
            point for hikes, such as the 3,7-mile trail to
            the Felsenegg viewpoint.
               And because cozy moments like this
            don’t cost a thing, I take a seat on a bench,
            breathe deeply, and gaze out at the mag-
            nificent scenery...




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