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one with Yellowstone Expeditions and the            Several movements coalesced to change the
            other with BackCountry Adventures. Both           nation’s attitude toward its natural resources,
            were professional, but Yellowstone Expedi-        and with Theodore Roosevelt in the White
            tions were a cut above. Their coach was           House in the early 1900s, the practice of
            equipped with tracks, like a tank, to negotiate   killing bison gave way to preserving them. To
            deeper snow. Both coaches carried eight or        replenish the Yellowstone herd, bison from
            nine passengers quite comfortably and the         private herds were imported and their num-
            drivers kept us warm inside. The vehicles eas-    bers grew to the 5,500 that live in the park to-
            ily managed Yellowstone’s groomed roads and       day. The park cannot accommodate more than
            shared the routes with bison, who have            that, however, and if bison wander outside the
            learned that traversing packed snow is easier     park they are culled, a polite word for shot.
            than bulling their way through drifts.              The one secret about all this is that there is
              When this country established Yellowstone       no such thing today as a genetically pure bison
            as the first ever national park in 1872, it un-   in the United States. To keep the species vi-
            wittingly caused an unintended consequence.       able, bison were crossbred with beef cattle, so
            Yellowstone became the only place in the          there is not a single bison in Yellowstone that
            United States where bison have lived continu-     has the same genetic makeup as before the ar-
            ously since before humans appeared on this        rival of white settlers.
            continent.                                          Yellowstone is probably the most popular
              The 19th century witnessed wholesale slaugh-    destination in this country to view live bison,
            ter of these wonderful beasts, and at their nadir  and during our visit we saw more of them than
            only 23 bison remained in Yellowstone. The        any other animal.
            species was on the brink of extinction.             On our first tour we entered the park before













































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