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from grapes grown in New Mexico.                  Market, which calls itself New Mexico’s first
              Winemaking? In New Mexico? Puh-leeze, is        food hall. The neighborhood known as the
            that even possible? Does Trish Silva, who         Sawmill District dates to 1903, and the Paxton
            works at the Noisy Water tasting room, en-        Lumber Co. opened a showroom and ware-
            counter that sort of chardonnay chauvinism?       house there in 1958. That building was reno-
                                                                                   vated in 2019 to become
              Only every day.
                                                                                   the food hall. Trying all
              “I think people are re-
                                                                                   30 places selling food
            ally surprised because
                                                                                   and drink would be diffi-
            they imagine that it’s just
                                                                                   cult, but Johnny can rec-
            a desert out here,” she
                                                                                   ommend Flora’s offering
            said, reminding those
                                                                                   of three street tacos of
            who listen that Spaniards
                                                                                   your choice for $15, at-
            brought grape vines to
                                                                                   tractively presented with
            the area 400 years ago.
                                                                                   requisite red and green
            “We get snow, we get
                                                                                   chilis. Christmas in Au-
            rain, we get all the
                                                                                   gust.
            weather. But nobody
            thinks about New Mexico                                                  Just an hour’s easy
                                                                                   drive north of ABQ (as
            and wine together. Then
            when they get here                                                     the cognoscenti say, al-
            they’re like, oh. There are                                            though they also say
                                                                                   Duke City) lies Santa Fe,
            50 wineries here or
                                                                                   a place that has been a
            more.”
                                                                                   city longer than any other
              Noisy Water Winery is
                                                                                   American state capital,
            based in Ruidoso and
                                                                                   perhaps to the dismay of
            takes its name from an
                                                                                   Boston and Annapolis.
            anglicizing of the Rio
                                                                                   And should you set about
            Ruidoso. Its vineyards
                                                                                   to compare Santa Fe and
            are in that area and also
                                                                                   Albuquerque, you will
            near Deming and Truth
                                                                                   find a tale of two plazas.
            or Consequences. The lo-
                                                                                     Albuquerque’s seems to
            cation south of Albu-
                                                                                   say come in, while Santa
            querque and abundant
            sun produce a more fruit-forward taste, Trish     Fe’s says come in but don’t break anything. Art
                                                              stuff vs. objets d’art. Albuquerque’s plaza
            said.
                                                              seems to be filled with tourists and work-a-day
              On a day in late August, a Noisy Water spe-
                                                              locals. In the Santa Fe square, you probably
            cialty wine was part of a tasting along with a
                                                              couldn’t toss a green chili without hitting a
            chardonnay, chenin blanc and cabernet sauvi-
                                                              multimillionaire. But as in Albuquerque, it
            gnon. The 2020 Besito Caliente Green Chili
                                                              helps to walk a block or so off the square to
            Wine tasted a little sparky, but Johnny’s wine
                                                              add to your understanding of the place.
            discernment tops out at telling red from white.
                                                                In Santa Fe, that means the Georgia O’Ke-
            This failing will bewilder readers of this smart
                                                              effe Museum.
            and stylish Wine Dine & Travel Magazine from
            Ron and Mary James, but Johnny couldn’t find        You can stroll unhurried through comfort-
            a publication named Drink Eat & Drive.            able galleries because the museum limits entry
                                                              and reservations are strongly recommended.
              Johnny is better versed in food, having eaten
            it his entire life. A half-mile walk north of the  The artist’s astonishing versatility is on dis-
            plaza to Bellamah Avenue reveals the Sawmill      play in pastels, watercolors, oils, a sculpture
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