Page 260 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2023 DISCOVERING TURKEY
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During one day of tasting that started at color and low-key shopping in Villoslada de
8:30 a.m., we enjoyed a break with a fine lunch Cameros, the main village next to the park. It
at Hector Oribe, a popular dining destination has several restaurants, bars, and shops serv-
for winery owners, winemakers, and families, ing traditional Riojan cuisine and regional
in the village of Páganos, about a 15-to-20- wines. Local goat herders and cheesemakers in
minute drive from Laguardia. Chef Hector cre- the villages around the park offer tastings and
ates seasonal tasting menus, blending Basque sales of their artisanal cheeses.
and Riojan influences. He has one of the best The visitor center at the entrance to the park
wine lists in Spain, over 2,500 labels with provides maps, brochures, and information
many rare Riojas. about the trails, points of interest, facilities,
We were treated to some local color during and rules in the park. It has public restrooms.
our lunch. The patriarch of a winemaking fam- Hiking trails range from easy walks to de-
ily was celebrating his birthday with three manding multi-day routes. The staff can offer
generations at a table of eight, with plenty of recommendations based on individual ability
wine, camaraderie, and joking all around. He and interest, plus trail conditions based on
stopped by our table on the way out to say current weather. The center offers guided hik-
hello to our guide and welcome us. He offered ing tours and educational programs, but these
one of his wines, a Gran Reserva. It went well need to be booked in advance on their website.
with Chef Hector’s tasting menu, which in- Highlights include: La Tejera neolithic cave
cluded homemade ravioli stuffed with mussels drawings to see ancient rock art and carvings;
and mushrooms, cod cooked in olive oil with the Barrancos de Las Lobas trail (5km
vegetables, and strawberries infused in red roundtrip) which takes you through a narrow
wine with chocolate, accompanied by fine local canyon with vulture colonies; the El Tobar wa-
white and red wines. terfall, with a hidden cave you can enter; the
Sierra de Cebollera Natural Park Laguna Negra, a stunning black lagoon in the
To take a break from wine tasting and tour- heart of the park surrounded by rocky peaks;
ing in the towns, plan a day trip to commune and dramatic canyons carved by local rivers.
with nature and add steps to your health During wilderness hikes, you may see wild
tracker with a visit to the Sierra de Cebollera horses, roe deer, boar, vultures, and many bird
Natural Park, about an hour's drive from Haro species.
and 45 minutes from Logroño. Wear sturdy The 10th Century Monastery of Susu, located
shoes and check the weather forecast to deter- just outside the village of San Millán de la Co-
mine what clothing would be best to wear. golla, about a 15-minute drive from Cebollera
Backpacks are recommended for carrying wa- Park, offers a medieval escape. It is carved
ter and essential supplies, like wine and into the mountainside overlooking the Oja
cheese. River valley, with cave-like rooms and carvings
The park has several picnic areas. Some visi- integrated into the rockface. Its Romanesque
tors shop for picnic fare and wines in the big- church was built in the 11th Century and has a
ger towns (and emergency supplies to have on simple nave and vaulted ceiling. The medieval
the road). You can find vittles and enjoy local frescoes and decorative elements go back to
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