Page 262 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2023 DISCOVERING TURKEY

the 12th century. The monastery features two the same family.
cloisters, living quarters, and areas for work Ezcaray is ski country, too! The base of the
and prayer, all hewn from the mountain. To- Valdezcaray ski area sits at an altitude of
day, a small community of monks still inhabits about 4,200 feet on the slopes of Mount
the monastery. Valdezcaray. Ride the picturesque chair lift to
Hill Towns of Santo Domingo de la the top of Mount Valdezcaray for views across
Calzada and Ezcaray the mountains, plains, valleys, and vineyards
Another half-day to full-day option is visit- to get a better feel for the topography of the
ing the hill towns of Santo Domingo de la Rioja region. The summit reaches an altitude
Calzada and Ezcaray. of about 8,200 feet and offers scenic trails for
Santo Domingo is 30 miles from Logroño hiking or mountain biking.
and 12 from Haro. The town is an important Saying Adios
stop along the Camino de On the way back to our
Santiago pilgrimage route. hotel and to provide a fi-
It has well-preserved me- nal impression before our
dieval architecture and visit ended, our tour
charming cobblestone guides detoured, taking us
streets to explore. The along small winding
Cathedral of Santo roads, past vineyards and
Domingo de la Calzada then up a high hill near
from the 12th century com- Laguardia. The 360-de-
bines Romanesque and gree view reinforced
Gothic architecture. In- something we learned
side, you'll find a live during the trip: the Rioja
chicken in a cage, symbol- region is a natural, his-
izing a legendary miracle torical and organoleptic
associated with the town's treasure.
history (a pilgrim escaping Some liken the overall
a hanging and a roasted impression to experiences
chicken springing to life to in Tuscany and Provence
validate the miracle). in the Old World, with
The town has an array of some touches from
restaurants and tapas bars emerging areas in the
for enjoying local wines New World (Paso Robles,
and Riojan cuisine. Wander around the town Santa Barbara and Sonoma in California; Cen-
to check out the artisan shops and get a feel tral Otago in New Zealand; and Stellenbosch
for its history, architecture, culture, and low- in South Africa).
key pace of everything. Beyond the wineries dotting the hillsides
The town sits at just over 1,200 feet, provid- and vineyards running everywhere, Rioja has
ing lovely mountain views, and is a perfect so much more to offer. There is something for
stop on the way to Ezcaray, a charming village every interest, from the small-town squares, to
just seven miles up the road in the Sierra de la the museums, cathedrals, connections with
Demanda mountains. The village is known for nature, towns, and villages with more than
its textiles, traditional crafts, and Echaurren, 1,000 years of history, lower prices than in
the first Rioja restaurant to earn a Michelin bigger cities, a relaxed pace, and a casual, ru-
star for its modernized Riojan cuisine. The ral, friendly personality. ¡Salud!
restaurant has been run by five generations of

262 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2023