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carried electric-power-assisted bicy-  I’d tell him about our adventures:  about  acacia in the town square at Miltenberg,
          cles for those who wanted to pedal off   dining on roast pig and celebrating  sampling local ice creams, as our guide
          and explore on their own. Additionally,  medieval comedy at Marksburg Castle,  boasted that locals have “always been
          each passenger got a wearable “Tailor-  about the wild collection of self-playing  gentle and friendly. They did not burn
          made” device that offered 600 recorded,  pianos and violins at Siegfried’s Me- witches alive here; they drowned them
          GPS-sensitive blurbs detailing sites and   chanical Musical Instrument Museum  first.”
          attractions we passed along our route.  in Rudesheim, about sitting under an
          Each cabin also received a 430-page                                   The Tailormade devices provided by Sce-
          beautifully illustrated paperback guide-                              nic are hard acts to follow – and a few
          book, produced by Scenic.                                             guides didn’t measure up, especially
                                                                                when excursions included lengthy bus
          Most mornings, I scurried off the ship                                rides.  A cooking class in Marktheiden-
          to explore; I raced back in late afternoon                            feld, billed as an afternoon “with local
          just as the gangplank was being raised                                house wives in a 300-year-old cellar,”
          for departure.  I’d find my husband                                   turned out to be a one-woman show in a
          where I’d left him – lying with a book                                hotel conference room: “German women
          facedown on his lap in a chaise lounge                                don’t take cooking classes,” our instruc-
          on the top deck.                                                      tor said, with a chuckle. “I cook only for
                                                                                tourists.”  (Guests’ feedback prompted
         “It’s been a perfect day,” he’d say. “I feel
          like I’m on my own yacht. Every half                                  Clockwise from top left: A couple aboard the
          hour or so someone from the crew                                     Scenic Jade enjoys viewing picturesque villages
          comes up to check if I want anything.  A                             along the Rhine. At dusk, somewhere along
          glass of wine? A snack?   I read, sleep, sip                         the Main (pronounced MINE) River, a bicyclist
         – and study the sun as it slips behind a                              pedals the tow path. Scenic passengers enjoy
          cloud and comes out again.“                                          exquisite meals with fresh, regionally sourced
                                                                               ingredients. Shore excursions include an after-
                                                                               noon at the Deppisch Family winery in Bavaria.


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