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Those two marine passages lie at the ed this time in Port Townsend, where buildings from the late 1800s hail from
northern and southern ends, respec- I had visited longtime friends. Port its thriving maritime past when it was
tively, of Whidbey Island, the largest Townsend sits on the northeast corner planning to be “the New York of the
island in Washington and one of my of the Olympic Peninsula on that Admi- West,” until the railroad changed plans
longtime favorite destinations. ralty Inlet. It is a splendidly preserved and bypassed it.
Victorian seaport, whose historic brick
Whidbey Island has long been a favorite Today, Port Townsend is an artists’ com-
escape for Seattleites, who live less than munity, too, so galleries, special shops
an hour’s drive south and a 20-minute and sophisticated restaurants have tak-
ferry ride away. They catch the Mukil- en over those beautiful brick buildings
teo to Clinton ferry, which leaves every on Main Street.
half-hour, bringing them to another
world that’s quieter, quirky and quint- I’ve always thought the Washington
essentially Northwest. State Ferry System offers one of the
best cruising bargains anywhere in one
Whidbey Island today is home to count- of the most beautiful bodies of water in
less artists, actors and musicians as well the world. You may not be able to afford
as farmers and vintners and outdoor a yacht, but you can ply those Puget
explorers. Its towns and villages offer Sound waters on the extensive ferry
small, walkable, historic main streets system that connects Seattle to several
filled with galleries, distinctive shops islands as well as the mainland to the
and farm-to-table restaurants. Its inns San Juan Islands and all these other
and B&Bs are tranquil, inviting and ro- points in between.
mantic. I always find its slower pace re- I caught the ferry from Port Townsend
markably calming, wrapping me in the to Keystone/Coupeville on Whidbey Is-
green and blue glory of a Pacific North- land, a mere 35-minute crossing for just
west forested island. about $10 with your car.
My most recent foray on Whidbey start- I drove straight to Coupeville, another

58 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2015