Page 142 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL EATING IBERIA

trict,enablingavisittothe16th-centurycathedral,the
lovely Art Nouveau kiosko (bandstand) in the Plaza de
Armas and the Mercado San Juan de Dios, largest in-
door market in the Americas.
At the Spanish-Moorish Palacio de Gobierno, I
studied Orozco's grim depiction of the Mexican Revo-
lutionrisingabovethesteepmarblestairway.InFather
Hidalgo, he portrays the priest who encouraged in-
digenous people to revolt against their oppressors, as
a fierce, foreboding figure surrounded by fire. Other
artists have a more heroic take on Hidalgo, considered
the father of Mexican independence. At the Instituto
Cultural Cabañas, an early 19th-century orphanage,
the muralist covered the long nave's walls, ceiling and
domes with his interpretation of indigenous and Euro-
pean interactions filled with anguish. The frescoes are
so overwhelming in size and drama the institute is
sometimes called the "Sistine Chapel of the Americas."

Coastal Style

A tour of Jalisco isn't complete without a few days
by the sea. Puerto Vallarta and its environs dominate
the state's coastline and tourism business. I wanted a
more secluded getaway, and chose to stay in the
Costalegre, the "Happy Coast." This largely undevel-

José Clemente Orozco's murals cover
walls and ceilings in historic buildings.
Baby turtles scramble to the sea at
Careyes.

142 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020