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implements swirled around me as I stretched out on
                                                              a mat and watched clouds drift in the evening sky,
                                                              soaking up the Careyes vibe.


                                                                            Where to Stay
                                                                  The resort area of Costa Careyes has gone
                                                              through many incarnations over the decades. These
                                                              days it's called El Careyes Club & Residences (www-
                                                              .careyes.com/accommodations/elcareyes). The hotel
                                                              building, originally designed in 1976, has been totally
                                                              remodeledtohouseluxurycondominiumsandsuites.
                                                              It frames the aforementioned pools, an open-air
                                                              restaurant (with fabulous ceviche) and a peaceful
                                                              beach. Residents and guests from the casitas, villas
                                                              and spectacular homes dubbed "ocean castles" scat-
                                                              teredaroundCostaCareyesmingleatacoupleofrus-
                                                              tic chic restaurants where everyone looks utterly
                                                              fascinating.
                                                                  My Guadalajara journey began at Hotel Deme-
                                                              tria (http://www.hoteldemetria.com) in the fashion-
                                                              able Colonia Lafayette. A study in gray, black and
                                                              white, with sleek glass walls and a sprinkling of art,
                                                              the boutique hotel is a favorite haunt for director
                                                              Guillermo del Toro and other celebs. There's a Luis
                                                              Barragánhousenextdoor,andloadsofeateriesinthe
                                                              neighborhood along with an excellent in-house
                                                              restaurant.
                                                                  I moved to the Presidente Intercontinental
                                                              Guadalajara( www.presidenteicguadalajara.com)on
                                                              the outskirts of downtown for my final nights. It's a
                                                              comfortable, business-oriented member of one of my
                                                              favorite Mexican hotel chains. Rooms are always sen-
                                                              sibly designed with good desks, cushy beds and space
                                                              to spread out. The rooftop pool was perfect for laps
                                                              and the Club Level lounge's light meals were out-
                                                              standing and satisfying. Presidente hotels always







                    Handsome villas overlook
                    the sleek pools at Careyes.



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