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streets filled with 140-year-old Italianate buildings, it
                                                               is home to dozens of specialty grocers, cheese and
                                                               dairy shops, butcher shops, bakeries, a farmers’ market
                                                               of fresh produce, desserts and chocolates, beer and
                                                               wine and even fresh seafood.
                                                                  Barb led us to Eckerlin Meats, a sixth-generation
                                                               butcher shop since 1852, which is especially known for
                                                               a Cincinnati specialty, goetta. Goetta is a concoction of
                                                               pork, beef and steel cut oats with seasoning to make a
                                                               verydistinctiveCincinnatisausage.AtDean’sMediter-
                                                               ranean Imports, we sampled some spicy hummus, of
                                                               which six homemade kinds are offered along with all
                                                               manner of imports, led by Kate Zaidan and her father,
                                                               Dean, who came from Lebanon.
            At top: The rolling hills of Blue Grass that          At Arepas Place, Isis Arrieta-Dennis from Colom-
            dot the countryside outside Lexington make         bia shared her delicious homemade arepas, “our
            for truly beautiful country drives, where          Colombianversionofgrilledcheese,”—athickcorntor-
            thoroughbreds roam the stone-lined farms.          tilla stuffed with cheese and white salsa. At Taste of
                                                               Belgium, Chris Tucker had us drooling over his sweet,
            Opposite: Cincinnati’s Finlay Market marks         crispy waffles that needed no syrup whatsoever.
            100 years. Above, Henry Clay’s Ashland
            estate in Lexington offers tours of the               Cincinnati has long been a city of immigrants, but
            statesman’s home, now focusing on women            the ones that most captured our attention were the
            and slaves who lived there.                        slaves seeking freedom here in the decades before the



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