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CivilWar.InCincinnati’sNationalUndergroundRail-
            road Freedom Center (freedomcenter.org), we im-
            mersed ourselves in interactive displays, extensive
            photographs and documents and even a real-life
            1830 log slave pen, previously used to house slaves
            prior to their being shipped to auction that was
            moved from a farm in Kentucky.
               ThiswasthebiggestsurprisetomeinCincinnati.
            This deeply moving museum opened in 2004, dedi-
            cated to “abolish human enslavement and secure
            freedom for all people.”
               Thousands of slaves had escaped to freedom
            here by crossing the Ohio River from southern slave
            states. The museum’s galleries feature the stories of
            abolitionist William Lloyd Garrison, Harriet Tubman,
            an escaped slave and conductor on the Underground
            Railroad; and Frederick Douglass, an escaped slave
            who became a distinguished speaker for abolition.
            There are films that recount the harrowing stories of
            runaway slaves, exhibits about Abraham Lincoln’s
            roleaswellastheCivilWar,andexhibitsthatportray
            continuing struggles faced by African Americans
            since the end of slavery. I left in tears.
               We dined that night at an elegant white-table-
            cloth restaurant named Restaurant L (www.lcincin-
            nati.com) that literally gave credence to Maness’
            statement about the Cincinnati food scene being a
            fraction of what it would cost in coastal cities. In this
            Parisian-style restaurant “with a little New York atti-
            tude and an abundance of Cincinnati charm,” we
            dinedonathree-coursegourmetmealforabout$85.
            This prix-fixe menu offered several choices for each
            course, including lobster salad, house cured salmon  that opened in 1931 that sits next to the 49-story
            or foie gras terrine for the first course; cheese, corn  Carew Tower, long the tallest building in town, now the
            and mushroom ravioli in spicy corn broth, scallops  second tallest. The Netherland Plaza is called the “first
            with mushroom polenta cake or rabbit with summer  lady of downtown hotels.”
            vegetablesandolivetapenadeforthesecondcourse;         TheNetherlandPlaza’smainpublicroomsareliter-
            and arctic char with fondue of spinach, carrots and  ally works of art. There are 10 floor-to-ceiling murals in
            mushrooms, or Hill Farm chicken with red rice goat  the Palm Court Restaurant; there are Rookwood Pot-
            cheese risotto and bell pepper fondue, or filet   tery floral tiles adorning the east and west entrances to
            mignon with potato puree, beets and broccolini for  the building. And brunch was bountiful — biscuits in-
            the main course. Wine pairings are $35 to $50 and  cluded, complete with the Chef’s Old-Fashioned, a sig-
            desserts of two courses or three are $65 or $85 ad-  nature cocktail here made with your call of bourbon,
            ditional. Delectable.                             Angostura bitters, simple syrup and an ice cube that
               Following a local tradition, we had to have    melts slowly into your bourbon as you sip. They call it a
            brunch at the Hilton Cincinnati Netherland Plaza  “Kentucky hug.”
            (www.hilton.com) a French Art Deco masterpiece

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