Page 172 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL EATING IBERIA

Our final foray into fascinating history here freed her and her children in 1840); and Sarah Hall,
came at Ashland, the Henry Clay Estate (https:// a free woman from England who came here in 1802
henryclay.org). Henry Clay (1777-1852) was an at- and worked as Ashland’s housekeeper for 50 years
torney, farmer, horseman and served this country until she died.
for nearly 50 years as a Congressional representa- Ashland is unveiling a new tour about the 60
tive, senator and Secretary of State. He was known African American slaves who worked here by next
as “The Great Compromiser” whose oratorical and year. “Storiesofcourage,heartbreakandresistance
negotiating skills helped hold the country together are coming,” it says.
for the first 50 years of the 1800s before the Civil
On our last day, we ventured just 20 minutes
War could not be stopped. Abraham Lincoln called
from town down those beautiful back roads of
Clay “my beau ideal of a statesman.” Lincoln knew horsecountrytoanantiqueemporiumlovedbyLex-
Clay through his wife, Mary Todd Lincoln, whose
ingtonians — Irish Acres. Now in its 33rd year, sis-
childhoodhomeisanotheropenfortoursinLexing-
ters Jane and Emilie have carried on their parents’
ton.
32,000squarefeetofsparklingstuffofyorehoused
Today’stoursatAshlandincludeanewoneded- in an old restored schoolhouse. Combing its many
icatedtotheformidablewomenofAshlandthrough rooms for treasures, we then repaired downstairs
the years. to the aptly named Glitz restaurant for a three-
“Women’sVoicesTour”focusesonninewomen course lunch for $25.
of Ashland spanning 100 years from its beginnings WesharedourfinalmealatTheMerrickInn,an
in 1804 to the early 1900s. institution in Lexington for 30 years that was listed
“The women of Ashland have been essential in on the 2019 “50 Best Southern Restaurants” by
making it still available to us,” our guide, Marilyn Open Table. It’s famous for its Southern fried
Machara, told us. “They are good examples of the chicken and fried green tomatoes. Housed in a for-
changes for women in the 19th century, from pure mer thoroughbred farm, the charming and atmo-
domestic roles to ‘The New Woman of the World.’” spheric Merrick Inn is rooted in Kentucky classics.
From Lucretia Hart Clay, who was married to The side of creamy corn pudding is a must.
Henry for 53 years and bore him 11 children, to This trip to these two fascinating cities offered
Anne Clay McDowell (Henry’s granddaughter) and more than I ever imagined. More living history than
Nannette McDowell Bullock, Henry’s great-grand- I could have anticipated, more delectable dishes in
daughter, who both were suffragettes, the stories new and old environs, and more moving experi-
make the house come even more alive. ences than I could have guessed.
Also featured on this tour are Charlotte Stan- Long live the flying pigs and blue horses of
ley, a slave at Ashland who filed suit for her and her this heartland.
children’s freedom (she lost but Clay eventually

172 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE 2020