Page 111 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2024 LIMA

PUBLIC MARKETS

Oaxaca’s public markets are raucous cul‐
turally vibrant destinations where locals (and
visitors) wander among warrens of vendors
offering everything from underwear and
toothbrushes to fresh flowers, handicrafts
and exquisite regional dishes. The Benito
Juarez Market is a block south of the Zocalo;
the Mercado 28 de Noviembre is a block south
of that. Both are popular, but our favorite
was the so-called “people’s market,” Mercado
Central de Abastos, about 20 blocks south
of the Zocalo. It was created 50 years ago
to ease traffic at those other two markets.
The Spanish word abastos means sup‐
plies. This is where people from all around
the city shop for whatever might be needed
to supply their homes, restaurants and busi‐
nesses. Today it’s Oaxaca’s largest market
- spanning more than 800 acres. The best
way to visit is with a guide.
We signed up for a Viator tour and logged
4.8 miles exploring Abastos. Guide Juan Car‐
los Villegas led our small group to the best
of everything. We stuffed ourselves on a wild
assortment of treats - from warm fresh-
baked bread to crispy chapulines, chili-
dusted grasshoppers. (Villegas taught us to
choose the small ones and remove the legs
before chomping down).
Our finale was a 5-star quesadilla, the
best I’ve tasted anywhere: a tortilla made on
the spot, stuffed with pumpkin blossoms and
local cheese, topped with bean sauce, gua‐
camole and a sprinkle of quesillo. (Find it at
“Comedor Conchita” where Carmen Morales
is the chef.) The cost: 15 pesos - less than $1.

Public markets in and around Oaxaca are hives
of activity. At the Friday market in Ocotlan,
visitors are swathed in aromas of everything
from fresh-baked bread to grilling meats and
vegetables. La Cocina de Frida (upper right) is a
wildly popular lunch spot in the market.

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