Page 114 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2024 LIMA

Dessert? Como no! My molten Oaxacan
chocolate cake was paired with house-made
vanilla ice cream. Friends ordered goat
cheese flan with lavender, chocolate
ganache, caramelized almonds and mango
compote, topped with a crisp honey tile. No‐
body wanted to share!
I’ll book a reservation at Los Danzantes
the minute after I next book a flight to Oaxaca.
Among other outstanding dining experi‐
ences:
At La Pitiona we sat under the stars, sip‐
ping mezcal margaritas on a rooftop terrace
overlooking Santo Domingo plaza. Our
seafood entrees were as savory as the setting
- but it was my huitlacoche appetizer that
remains most memorable. The corn fungus,
a Mexican delicacy, was served roasted on
the cob sitting atop a pool of dark mole – an
earthy, smoky adventure with subtle notes
of sweetness from the corn. A creamy dollop
of potato puree complemented the flavors.
Thalia Barrios Garcia was in her early 20s
when she opened Levadura de Olla in 2019.
Two years later, Food & Wine Mexico anointed
her a Best New Chef. The accolades haven’t
stopped. Locals rave about her moles and
traditional dishes from the Sierra Sur region
– where she grew up and her grandmother
taught her to cook. Some of her best dishes
are served in clay pots. But the restaurant’s
most popular dish isn’t cooked at all: The
Instagram-ready house tomato platter is
crowded with thick slices of assorted heirloom
tomatoes that transport diners to long ago
childhood summers.

Tortillas are made on the spot at Levadura de
Olla (upper left). At Casa Oaxaca, a ceviche
appetizer comes cradled in a green chile.
Among daily breakfast surprises greeting guests
at La Casa de Mis Recuerdos (opposite): this
stunning dish of squash blossoms, egg and
salsa verde.

114 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2024