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Most of the small towns surrounding Oax‐ merchants peddling lifetime supplies of every
aca have their own markets – and market imaginable piece of clothing.
days. When trusted locals unanimously rec‐ A woman carrying a huge live turkey
ommended the Friday market in Ocotlan, we captured our attention. We followed her past
hired a driver to take us there. a long smoky swath where men butchered
The scene was a topsy-turvy jumble of cuts of raw meat and indigenous women in
organized chaos: Part indoors, part open air, well-worn aprons grilled the goods on open-
a cacophony of sounds and scents, with ven‐ flame grills. Customers dined al momento.
dors gathered in defined neighborhoods: We lost our turkey marm when she joined
butchers, bakers, candle makers, flower ven‐ a gaggle of friends hawking dozens more
dors, toy and tech sellers - and blocks of turkeys, chickens and live ducks.
112 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2024