Page 56 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2023 LISBON EDITION

Portugal has some quirks. One of the biggest
head-scratchers is its enduring love affair with
bacalhau or stinky salt cod to laypeople. Why a
country lauded for its seamanship and rich fish-
ing grounds would prefer salted dried cod over
the tasty fresh stuff is baffling. Equally perplex-
ing is why generations of Portuguese fishermen
risked their lives in the most inhospitable seas in
the world just to bring back the makings for cro-
quettes and 101 other cod dishes.
It’s complicated, as we found out during our
visit to the multi-story museum complex dedi-
cated to bacalhau just a block from our apart-
ment. International trade compacts, politics,
geography, wars, dictatorships, and pride all
played roles in making the humble cod a symbol
of gastronomy, culture, and maritime history.
We didn’t have high expectations for this mu-
seum, officially the Interpretative Center of the
History of Cod. But we thoroughly enjoyed the
museum’s entertaining multimedia and sensory
exhibits that tell the fascinating story of cod. For
example, in one small room, you can climb into
fisherman’s gear and board a small dory. Sud-
denly the boat rocks, cold air blows in and the
walls become video screens of raging waters. It’s
uncomfortable but not nearly as a bad as it was
for the poor fishermen who spent 12 hours a day
in the coastal waters of Greenland and New-
foundland in pursuit of cod. But we got the
point: This was miserable, dangerous work.
We’re not bacalhau fans, tho there were some
tempting recipes by top chefs on display. But we
left with a newfound respect for the humble fish
and the heroic Portuguese fisherman who risked
their lives to put it on the country’s tables.

56 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SUMMER 2023