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have your Michelin-starred meal, and it’s all en- so fulsome and the sommelier’s wine-pairings
tirely plant-based and refined-sugar-free.” are so scrumptiously quaffable.
For carnivores, the notion of a top-notch This is the beauty of “Moving Mountains.” You
repast devoid of meat and dairy might sound as can choose how and when to participate—or
improbable as a sinewy Santa cycling around not. I confess, when I decide to explore the
the world in scarlet Lycra, stuffing stockings slopes above the property, I skip the hike and
with cod liver oil—and heaven knows what hor- board the hotel’s Tschuggen Express funicular.
rors if you’re naughty. But a six-course vegan In less than four minutes, it whisks me up an-
menu prepared by Michelin-starred chef Marco other 500 feet, depositing me a short stroll
Campanella at the Tschuggen Grand’s La Brezza from a hopping apres-ski scene where pint-
proves to be a delicious revelation. One high- swilling crowds bellow German stadium an-
light is the potato with onion and black truffle, thems. Never mind that I don’t ski, don’t speak
which lends a meaty essence without requiring German, and definitely can’t sing. I do drink
an animal to sacrifice so much as a whisker. Yet beer, which is all the qualification required.
it’s hard to feel self-righteous when flavors are Let us draw a veil over those insalubrious
104 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE SPRING 2023