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Empress Maria Theresia.                            From left: the imposing Kunsthistorisches
              From here it was only a few minutes’ walk to    Museum, a mural spanning a house
            Hofburg, the former imperial court of the Hab-    facade, many patches of green are part of
                                                              the Baumscheiben (tree discs) project
            sburgs from 1273 to 1918. The oldest section is
            the 13th-century Schweizerhof (Swiss Court-
            yard), named after the Swiss guards who pro-
            tected its precincts. It adjoins a larger
            courtyard, In der Burg, with a larger-than-life
            statue of Emperor Franz II in the center. Today,
            the palace houses the Austrian president's of-
            fices, the preserved royal apartments, and a
            row of museums.
              Just before 10 am, Gabriele rushed me on to
            the Spanish Horse Riding School where the fa-
            mous white Lipizzan stallions were led across
            the Reitschulgasse to the Winter Riding School
            for their morning routine. The horses were


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