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These puzzles were an intriguing find at a Christmas market in Strasbourg. Opposite: Strolling through the town of Heidel-
berg was a special delight. Opposite page: Strolling through the town of Heidelberg was a special delight. The Main Street
(Hauptsrasse) is a mile-long pedestrian-only street that runs the length of the old town.

iar on sweet corn blini or potato-crusted Mascarpone cheese rant scene. Lunches here were more casual buffets, offering
with truffle sabayon sauce, or between seared crab cake with sandwiches and salads, or sometimes, hamburgers and French
corn or tomato mozzarella tart with tomato confit or Filipino fries.
shrimp egg roll; or between entrees such as pan-fried char fillet We often cruised at night, waking to a new port each morn-
with pea puree, baby corn, tomato concasse and cauliflower or ing. We’d disembark, board buses for short drives to the cities
Chateaubriand with buttered vegetables, potatoes and Bernaise of note along the route, then follow a guide on walking tours
sauce, or gratinated cannelloni with cherry tomatoes, zucchi- before being released from the group to wander on our own.
ni and parmesan foam, or potato leek crepe with Gruyere and
baby vegetables. Delightful desserts included French tarte ta- Two girlfriends traveling together from Florida told me they
tin, Marscarpone & sour cherry cake with brownie streusel and were disappointed by all the bus rides and group tours. But
marinated berries, warm apple hazelnut crumble, Black Forest there seemed no better way to reach Cologne or Heidelberg or
cake or always ice creams or sorbets. Strasbourg when docking on the river, and if you didn’t want to
Beer and wines flowed during dinners. Rieslings and pi- follow the guide, you could be on your own in the cities in no
time for plenty of shopping at those Christmas markets.
not noirs specially chosen from Alsace and other regions we
cruised through gave us yet another connection to the places But the guides were all great, and you really do learn fascinat-
we were experiencing. ing tidbits when you follow them.
The Aquavit Terrace was a quieter, more intimate option any- In Cologne, Marion Dijkman guided us through the historic
time anyone wanted to have a meal away from the lively restau- core of her beloved city’s old town, centered by the magnifi-

Wine Dine & Travel 2016 47