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largely saved from World War II destruction.” It is home to the
Unterlinden Museum, “the second most visited site in France,
after the Louvre, for its 16th century altar piece,” Peter said. He
showed us the smallest house in Colmar, just 12 square meters
on two floors with no first floor, “so they didn’t pay taxes, since
they were levied only for first floors.” On our way back home on
the bus, Peter serenaded us on his accordion with several lovely
French tunes.
“I am usually a sound critical thinker and in all honesty I have
thought about it a lot and my Mum feels the same way, but we
can hardly find anything we didn’t like about our week with Vi-
king,” wrote Darren de Warren, one of my new friends from the
ship whom I asked to weigh in on our experience.
“I really liked the contrast of the smart casual cruise and the
relaxed, friendly, efficient staff in the context of deluxe cruising.
It was a real paradox but it really worked,” he wrote.
“Sensitive to the details of design, I loved the Nordic space and
the influence this had on my mood. Having done a little ocean
cruising with 2,000+ others on board, there was no comparison
in the relaxation stakes. I was amazed at the silence of the en-
gines, the mix of activity and non-activity on different days and
the absence of on-board hoopla. Just the piano each evening, a
cocktail and a chat before dinner finished great days.”
Darren, “pushing 50,” was traveling with his mother, Pam,
70, both from Brisbane, Australia. “Having ocean-cruised with
her before, there was no comparison to the flexibility we had
to do our own thing,” Darren wrote. “I could take off and do
walking tours while she remained on board, caught some pics
of the riverbanks I didn’t see, had lunch, while I could also do a
reconnaissance for her on shore at the next port and then sug-
gest things her mobility would permit. She never felt she missed
anything and nor did I.”
Bratcher also commented on the attentiveness of the crew.
“Obviously, the crew gets the majority of the credit for our expe-
rience,” he said. “They really can make or break an experience.
Considering the length of the cruising season and that fact we
were there toward the end of their time, I thought they did a
great job of staying engaged… I truly did not have one time
where I thought they acted tired or worn down.”
He noted that the highly social nature of our cruise may not
be for everyone. “I saw a few people who seemed more inclined
to stay by themselves,” he said. There were a couple of chances
for dinners on your own in Rudesheim and Speyer, and the on-
board concierge will make that an easy choice.
But for many of us, the experience was thoroughly enhanced
because of new friends.
And I found the best holiday presents ever.

IF YOU GO
Viking River Cruises: www.vikingrivercruises.com. The eight-
day cruise down the Rhine, including all meals and included
excursions, begins at $1,999 per person.

Left: The Cologne Cathedral, the third highest church in the world,
soars above one of the city’s seven Christmas markets. Cologne’s
Christmas markets draw some 4 million people each year, making
them among the most visited holiday markets in Germany.

Wine Dine & Travel 2016 49