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soaking tub, glass-enclosed shower, plushy towels,
            soft bathrobes and slippers. Everything was per-
            fect -- even the toilet paper had been sculpted into
            a white rose. With my balcony overlooking the
            river, this was the type of accommodation I never
            wanted to leave, but it was just about two bells
            (5pm Navy time) when all the guests gathered by
            the flagpole with a complimentary glass of bubbly.
              We stood toasting the flag, “Don’t Give Up the
            Ship” which was the American Navy’s battle cry
            during the War of 1812. The Inn was originally
            built as an estate for Samuel Hambleton who
            served with Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry (and
            later became his friend) in the battle of Lake Erie.
            After the War, Hambleton ran a navy blue flag up
            his flagpole with the motto, “Don’t Give Up the
            Ship.”
              Eventually, Hambleton’s estate was sold and be-
            came a plantation, then a dairy farm, then an
            equestrian farm. Designer Laura Ashley took it
            over and later sold it to the founders of Orient Ex-
            press. Today, The Inn is owned by a NYC-based in-
            vestment company which is also creating a nearby
            sister property with all water-facing rooms and
            villas, The Lodge at Perry Cabin, to be completed
            in 2023.
              Post toast, I sipped my champagne while sitting
            in an Adirondack chair (there are scores of these
            comfortable chairs at the Inn) and watched the
            boats float by. St. Michaels began as a shipyard
            and from here I could see the Chesapeake Bay
            Maritime Museum, once the site of seafood pack-
            ing houses, docks, and work boats. The gentry ar-
            rived and built homes here while the less
            fortunate who lived near the swamps became the
            Chesapeake Bay Watermen sustaining the fishing,
            crabbing and oystering industries.
              I was salivating at the thought of seafood, so I
            headed for the Inn’s “Purser’s Pub” and sat outside
            to eat the “Taste of the Eastern Shore Seafood
            platter” with salmon, oysters, crab claws, rockfish,
            and snakefish. But this was Maryland, and I was
            jones-ing for more crab, so I ordered the most de-
            licious crispy soft-shelled crab (with honey mus-
            tard) that I’ve ever tasted. When I returned to my
            suite there were freshly-made chocolate chip
            cookies on my nightstand.



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