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Looking through the “canal window” at a vestige of the Reno Canal, which
            served as a means of transport and energy beginning in the middle ages.


               So comfortable is it that it has adopted       have a long history of intellectualism, from
            several nicknames bestowed on it, some of         which they do not shrink.
            them cynical. La Rossa is the best known,             And then there is La Turrita, “The Tow-
            for “The Red,” which originally referred to       ered,” because Bologna has some of the
            its blushing pink buildings, but later re-        best surviving examples of medieval tow-
            ferred to its left-leaning politics. So what,     ers, which were a craze in pre-Renaissance
            say Bologna residents. We are who we are.         Italy. The leaning Tower of Pisa is the best
               Then there is La Dotta, “The Learned,”         known of these, but Bologna has two lean-
            for the University of Bologna, which was          ing towers that date to the early eleventh
            founded in 1088 and is the oldest continu-        century.
            ously operating university in Europe, and             Last and best is La Grassa, “The Fat,”
            maybe the world. The city and university          which Bologna embraces with a full stom-





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