Page 165 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL MAGAZINE FALL 2023 DISCOVERING TURKEY
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spired designs. The room was blissfully cool, a
                                                              blessing after the June heat and humidity out-
                                                              side. Though short, the menu was nearly over-
                                                              whelming with its melange of familiar
                                                              ingredients in unusual pairings. I chose the
                                                              seven-course tasting menu while trying to re-
                                                              sist the warm puffy roll and paprika-chili but-
                                                              ter that arrived almost immediately.
                                                                I ordered the Ixchel Makal cocktail (named
                                                              after the Maya goddess of women and fertil-
                                                              ity) and received what looked like a leather-
                                                              bound book. Rosemary-scented smoke wafted
                                                              out as the server opened the lid. The glass in-
                                                              side held a refreshing blend of cranberry
                                                              juice, beetroot puree and sotol, a distillate
                                                              made from the desert spoon plant, abundant
                                                              in Chihuahua and other northern Mexican
                                                              states. The bartenders relied on Mexican spir-
                                                              its including mezcal, tequila and raicilla for
                                                              their creations. The wine list featured bottles
                                                              from the Guadalupe and San Vicente valleys
                                                              and other Mexican wine regions.
                                                                My meal was a succession of successes.
                                                              Standouts included an amouse bouche
                                                              arancini with Chihuahua cheese and chichar-
                                                              rones, followed by slivers of raw dorado
                                                              (mahi-mahi) wrapped around green mango,
                                                              shrimp and hojo santo, a plant from southern
                                                              Mexico with a slight sassafras flavor. The silky
                                                              dorado entree took the catch of the day to an-
                                                              other level with a chili beurre blanc and epa-
                                                              zote. Even the churros with cajeta ice cream






























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