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blew me away. super-fresh, citrus-cooked fish with fruits and
Makal’s menu includes several exceptional chilies. Tomatillos and corn enhanced the
dishes for vegetarians and diners with food re- bass and chile atole (a cornmeal-based soup).
strictions. The mushroom ceviche sounded es- I had a hard time finishing the duck magret
pecially intriguing, as did the quinoa tartar. with mole negro entree, but devoured the
The charming servers kept me chocolate tamale with mascarpone
company (a pleasure when din- and a pitahaya coulis that had me
ing alone) and tables filled as scribbling OMG on the menu.
the sky grew dark outside. All in Servers Lupita and Victor put
all, it was an exceptional meal. forth such enthusiasm and so much
I enjoyed another innovative information I lingered over a glass
Mexican dinner at Restaurante of raicilla, an agave liquor from
Icú, a dramatic open-air restau- Jalisco. We chatted about the new-
rant also in the Zona Román- est dining hotbed, the relatively
tica. Two enormous tree trunks quiet Versalles neighborhood,
rose through the soaring ceiling where Leal has opened a second
of the large dining room with a restaurant called Flamboyán. Sev-
mural depicting ears of corn eral spots along the neighborhood’s
(Icú means corner in the Hui- Calle España and Calle Francia
chol language). As at Makal, the were gaining attention among lo-
bartenders relied on regional Mexican liquors, cals and visitors. I started making a list includ-
wines and beer while Chef Mauricio Leal ing Barrio Bistrot, La Tosca Trattoria, and El
played with corn and regional ingredients. Puerco de Pro, where the carnitas tacos are leg-
Leal’s seven-course tasting menu, plus a few endary. Unfortunately, there wasn’t time to
graze through Versalles during this trip, but
extra treats, featured several exceptional
seafood dishes including a striped bass it’s sure to be at the head of the itinerary for
aguachile and tuna tiradito, both enhancing my next culinary adventure in PV.
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