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their former grandeur and turning them   tifully up-dated, the past is still present.  locals, had become an economic engine

            into luxury hotels. The haciendas began   Not just in the 17th century arches, but   for the area’s three small villages.  “We
            to boom again, this time through tour-  in the chimney and machinery of the   consider it somewhat philanthropic,”
            ism.                               former  sisal factory and in the stone   Dev said. So they turned Petac into a va-
                                               foundation blocks that once graced   cation rental getaway.
            Today there are hacienda hotels scat-  Mayan  buildings.  “We’re  just  sort  of  a
            tered all over the Yucatan. Including Ha-  place holder,” Dev told us. “It has such a   Now the Sterns just make short visits
            cienda Petac, there are at least a dozen   history and the history continues.”  and never in winter, the height of the
            with within an hour’s drive of Merida.                                tourist season.  “It’s a vacation spot for
           They attract the glitterati as well as less   Originally meant as a second home, the   us,” Dev said. “We restored it with fami-
            splashy tourists.  Petac is coy about past   Sterns began to rent it out “just to keep   ly and friends in mind. It’s a nice place to
            guest lists but did say it has welcomed   it occupied.” Then they realized the re-  reconnect. We spend a lot of time by the
            Nobel laureates, fashion models, soap   vived hacienda, with its staff of some 25   pool and around the dining room table
            opera stars, four Michelin chefs in a
            group of 12, and at least one rock star:
            Peter Gabriel, who signed their guest
            book.
            Petac’s saviors were Americans Dev and
            Chuck Stern.  Long-time  Mexico trav-
            ellers, they were looking for a vacation
            getaway when they got hacienda fever.
           “We looked into a dozen haciendas,” Dev
            told us over the phone from her home in
            Houston. “We would see a chimney and
            we would stop.”

            Finally, after several years of hunting,
            they spotted Petac. “Two things in-
            spired us,” Dev said, “the fact that all ex-
            isting buildings were in close proximity
            to each other – many of the haciendas
            are spread across roads, too spread out
           – and the arches were stunning.  The po-
            tential was obvious.”

            Or maybe not. There was little grandeur
            left when the Sterns bought Petac in
            2000. The buildings had crumbled; there
            was no plumbing. “It was a moonscape,”
            Dev told us. “Not a blade of grass. We
            had to bring in dirt bag by bag to plant
            grass. One room had a tree growing
            through it. A tree had fallen across one
            room in a hurricane.

           “Thank heavens we didn’t realize what a
            nightmare it was going to be to fix up,”
            she said.
            But by 2002, with the help of Mexico
            City architect Salvador Reyes, Hacienda
            Petac was once again a home. And since
            then the updating and renovation has
            continued. (“It’s never complete to me,”
            Dev said.”) Today the 250-acre hacienda
            includes six buildings with seven guest
            suites, a library, bar, chapel, game room,
            pool, fountains, gardens, spa and exer-
            cise center and a new separate kitchen
            building for cooking classes.

            Best of all, even though it’s been beau-


            86    Wine Dine & Travel  Summer/Fall 2015
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