Page 82 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL WINTER SPRING 2022
P. 82

Spanish language learn-                  as I write this. It’s 14 degrees and snow-
            ing spiced with Zapotec                   ing. But each time I take a bite from my
            food and culture                          disappearing stock of chapulines at din-
                                                      ner, preferably with a shot of mezcal (a
                                                      close relative of tequila), I’m taken back
                       utside the “20 de Noviem-
                                                      to Oaxaca City - a UNESCO World Her-
                       bre” market in Oaxaca City,
                                                      itage Site - its warmth, bright flowers,
                       Mexico, a diminutive abuela
                                                      narrow streets, friendly people and col-
           O (grand-
                                                                         orful plazas.
            mother) pointed to a
                                                                           The Midwestern
            mound of deep red
                                                                         landscape had al-
            arachnids at her
                                                                         ready turned gray
            small stand, smiled
                                                                         and brown when I
            teasingly at me and
                                                                         made my trek to
            said “pruébalos,”
            which translate                                              Oaxaca in south-
                                                                         western Mexico for
            roughly as “try
                                                                         a week-long, inten-
            some.”
                                                                         sive Fluenz (fluenz
              Never having
                                                                         .com) language pro-
            eaten an insect - on
                                                                         gram that also in-
            purpose, anyway - I
                                                                         cluded time to
            screwed up my
                                                                         explore the city and
            courage, selected a
                                                                         its surroundings.
            fried “chapuline”
                                                                           The course fea-
            (grasshopper in the
                                                                         tured 120-minute
            Nahuatl language),
            dropped it onto my                                           sessions, twice daily,
                                                                         with one-on-one
            tongue and bit
                                                      and two-to-one student-teacher ratios.
            down.
                                                      My Spanish was middling at the start,
              There was a crackle as my teeth
                                                      but thanks to outstanding Fluenz teach-
            crushed its wings, head, thorax and legs.
                                                      ers and interactions with Oaxacans I
            Then a cascade of spice, including lime,  made a significant jump when the pro-
            garlic and chiles, exploded in my mouth.
                                                      gram ended. Still, it also made me real-
              I dug some pesos out of my pocket,      ize I have much to learn, so I may be
            bought a small bag of chapulines and      back. Or perhaps do a similar Fluenz of-
            pondered what foods might go well with    fering in Barcelona, Spain.
            the crunchy and spicy grasshoppers.         My classmates (nine of us in total)
            (More on that later.)
                                                      were based in the lovely Pug Seal Oax-
              I’m back home in Madison, Wisconsin     aca Hotel (pugseal.com) on Calle Por-



            82   WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER/SPRING 2022
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