Page 84 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL WINTER SPRING 2022

firio Diaz near the city center, so we were within a ciously responsive to student requests be-
short walking distance to numerous museums, yond the classroom, going so far as to acquire
churches, parks, markets, mezcal stores and other a guitar for me to practice and batteries for
sites. my tuner.
Opened several years ago, the hotel is the for- Most evenings, Heidepriem guided us to ex-
mer home of a well-do-do merchant and includes a cellent Oaxacan restaurants, including the
pleasant, open-air courtyard with ceramic artwork Cafe Criollo, a creation of famed Mexico City
and a fountain in its center. The large rooms had a chef Enrique Olvera - which features an open-
high-tech feel, while the walls were decorated air dining area and an open, wood-fired ce-
with abstract murals painted by artist Rafael Urie- ramic comal. We feasted on mole enchiladas
gas. with organic pollo (chicken), quesadillas with
Each morning before my fellow estudiantes and herbed guacamole and other delights, all in-
I began classes, we were treated to delicious Za- terspersed with shots of mezcal and wine.
poteco gourmet breakfasts that featured every- We also dined at the Alfonsin, which is op-
thing from French Toast sprinkled with raspberries erated by chef Jorge Leon, who cooked at top
(perhaps because French troops occupied Mexico restaurants in Mexico City before returning
City from 1862 to 1867) to delicious hibiscus- to his native Oaxaca to work with his mother
flower omelets, mushroom tostadas, chilaquiles Elvia at their eatery, which had the feel of be-
(baked corn tortillas served with salsa, pulled ing invited into someone’s home.
chicken, avocado, refried beans) and vegetable en- For lunch in the middle of the week, we
chiladas. went to the Baltazar, a cafe which provided
In addition to the outstanding instructors, the delicious Oaxacan dishes prepared by chef
program featured Erica Heidepriem, who could be Olga Cabrera, as well as a wide offering of dif-
best described as the Fluenz concierge/producer/ ferent mezcals in an adjacent shop, Casa Con-
coordinator. vite.
She made things flow smoothly and was gra- And one evening, under a full moon, we had

84 WINE DINE & TRAVEL MAGAZINE WINTER/SPRING 2022