Page 117 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SUMMER 2024 LIMA

Tortilla soup, no matter where we
dined, was always a festive favorite.
Tlayudas, sometimes called Mexican piz‐
zas, are an iconic Oaxacan treat: dinner-
plate-sized corn tortillas cooked on a
comal, topped with beans, quesillo, av‐
ocado and salsa. They’re available al‐
most everywhere and became our
chosen street food. Delish – and a steal.
Our favorite place for breakfast was
La Casa de Mis Recuerdos (the House of
My Memories). It’s the delightful family
owned and operated bed and breakfast
where we stayed for nine nights – and
savored nine spectacular breakfasts.
Owner Conchita Arroyo, who grew up in
the home she slowly transformed into
an enchanting seven-room inn, is the
master of her cocina. Every morning her
impeccably dressed communal table
was set with individual fresh fruit plates,
baskets of assorted fresh-baked breads,
just-squeezed juices and a bottomless
pot of coffee. Then Conchita presented
each guest with a custom-cooked hot
egg dish – a daily masterpiece, always
delicious and unique.
Around that breakfast table we be‐
came Conchita’s extended family – ex‐
changing stories and tips with our new-
found brothers and sisters.
A second cup of coffee one morning
led me to one of my happiest Oaxaca
treats. Fellow traveler, Chicago photog‐
rapher Maria Ponce, tipped me to Copalli
Masaje Ancestral where the following
day I submitted to two hours of dreamy
nirvana – one of the best massages I’ve
had anywhere in the world, at one of the
best prices ever.

Clockwise from above right: The breakfast
table at La Casa de Mis Recuerdos is a cheery
and inviting celebration of color. At Levadura
de Olla, the house tomato platter is Instagram
ready. Everywhere in Oaxaca, tortilla soup is a
fun and festive treat.

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