Page 59 - washington state wine

Good Fortune Takes Charge an Inca warrior. Thoroughly defeated, I to dither over purchases evaporated as
followed a circuitous downhill route un- I darted through narrow doorways into
I must have looked beyond pitiful as til spotting the hotel's cheery blue and treasure-box shops where owners and
I slunk into the grand lobby at Cus- white facade. clerks were as fascinating as their wares.
co's Palacio Del Inka hotel that night. I I did manage to resist the gorgeous al-
vaguely remember Roger, the kind con- paca sweaters and capes displayed in
cierge who led me through an enormous chic boutiques. Instead, I found two
formal suite to a cloud-soft bed. As I silky soft rose and violet scarves at Pure
tried to sleep, visions of the next morn- Alpaca, which carries alpaca weavings
ing's planned flight and boat ride to the from an Andean women's collective.
Amazon brought on the vapors, though
that spooky old river is one of my favor- Next came retablos, colorful house-
ite places on the planet. The promise shaped boxes holding tiny dioramas.
of two days in Cusco, navel of the Inca Several friends already have nativity re-
world, tempered disappointment as I tablos from my last trip. They're always
cancelled all further excursions. in high demand. One multi-level shop
packed with collector-quality folk art
Determined to enjoy Cusco—Peru's best carried wildly intricate two-foot tall ver-
shopping and cultural center—I wan- sions worth thousands of dollars. Mine
dered away from the hotel in mid-after- The following morning brought rain and came from a wizened, hard-bargaining
noon for a short walk to the main Plaza gloomy clouds over distant mountain lady in a souvenir shop.
de Armas. After hiking up a couple of peaks, but nothing could destroy my
steep streets I collapsed on a park bench, final 24 hours in Peru. After chugging Fanciful ceramic bulls, called toritos de
studied my map and wondered how I the doctor's mysterious brew and pills, I Pucará, also came from modest shops.
could possibly have missed my destina- boldly ventured forth and hailed a cab These caramel-colored figurines perch
tion. The next day I realized I'd been in to San Blas, an artsy neighborhood on on rooftops all around the Andes bring
the plaza all along, but was too dazed a hill above by the Plaza de Armas. In good fortune, prosperity and fertility to
and exhausted to notice the baroque a spirited, energetic shopping frenzy, I households. They're the perfect gift for
cathedral overlooking the plaza's multi- managed to hand over hundreds of soles young friends in starter houses. I had
tiered fountain topped with a statue of in a mere two hours. My usual tendency stricter requirements for replacing my

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