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Finding a Silver Lining in Peru



                                     | STORY AND PHOTOS BY MARIBETH MELLIN |














































                  ravel is my passion. Like all   azon's spooky gloom. An extra bag was  terial infections in California that decid-
                  great loves, it messes with   on hand for alpaca sweaters, woven tex- ed to emerge most inconveniently. They
                  my mind and heart at times.  tiles and precious folk art. My taste buds  could have destroyed everything, but
                  But vale la pena, as we say in   tingled at the thought of Peru's endless  serendipitous moments created heart-
                  Spanish. It's definitely worth   versions of ceviche, the unique flavor  felt memories that left me longing to
        Tthe effort.                         of aji chilies and delicate pink trucha  return to Peru ASAP.
                                             (trout) from Andean streams—but not
          Take my recent weeklong Peruvian mis-  for cuy, the cooked version of Peru's kit- A Promising Beginning
          adventure. The ambitious itinerary in-  ten-sized, cuddly guinea pigs.
          cluded a writer's conference and a dash                               The week's highlights began with a
          through Lima, Machu Picchu, Cusco and   Catastrophe struck two days into the  chance sighting of folk dancers parad-
          the Amazon, all places I'd grown to love   trip, however, during my one precious  ing in front of the cathedral overshad-
          while writing the Traveler's Peru Com-  night at the lovely, historic Inkater- owing Lima's Plaza de Armas. Children
          panion in the 1990s.               ra  Machu  Picchu  Pueblo  Hotel.  Any  perched on their dads' shoulders and
                                             thought of food made me woozy; my
          My must-do list included meditating   body refused to carry on. Travel tummy
          with alpacas on a hilltop overlooking   seemed the obvious culprit, but I later  Top: Cusco’s narrow streets are lined with intrigu-
          Machu Picchu  and  reveling  in the  Am-  learned I'd picked up two stubborn bac- ing shops. Opposite: Shaman in the Sacred Valley.



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