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On the crisp weekday that I strolled   ker—a relaxing place to sit on a bench
                                           around—after  drizzly  rain--noting  the   and people-watch.
                                           beautiful fountains and the well-kept
                                           gardens, there were few visitors and it   Fugger didn't marry until 1498, nearly
                                           was eerily quiet.  An elderly lady, wear-  age 40; his wife, Sibylla Arzt, was 18 and
                                           ing  a  head  scarf  that  framed  her heav-  the couple, wed 26 years and thought to
                                           ily-lined face—testament to a long,  be unhappy (money doesn't give you ev-
                                           weary life--leaned out of a ground floor   erything), remained childless.  Toward
                                           apartment window, eying me with curi-  the end of his life (he died in Decem-
                                           osity.                              ber 1525 at age 66; his widow quickly
                                                                               remarried), Fugger contemplated what
                                           On the grounds is also a small shop and   would happen upon his death and, fear-
                                           beer  garden—and  the  green-shuttered   ing purgatory, was concerned for his
                                           apartments boast unique iron bell pulls   soul.  Hence he came up with the idea of
                                           in  different  shapes—a  holdover  from   having the Fuggerei residents pray daily
                                           earlier days when there wasn't good   not only for his soul, but for the souls of
                                           lighting and residents had to feel them   his family as well, to ensure that they all
                                           to be sure they were at the right flat!  would get inside the Pearly Gates.

                                           Fugger's investments dwindled over the   So, to this day, besides paying for utili-
                                           next century (although today his de-  ties, such as heat—and volunteering in
                                           scendants still own real estate, includ-  the gardens, as the night watchman or
                                           ing several castles and businesses)—but   gatekeeper--the residents are also re-
                                           the charitable trust that he set up in   quired to say three daily prayers for the
                                           1520 still is doing well enough to keep   souls of the Fuggers' dynasty and de-
                                           the Fuggerei afloat, helping out low-in-  scendants:  the Lord's Prayer, Hail Mary,
                                           come renters who became impoverished   and the Apostles' Creed.
                                           through no fault of their own.
                                                                              “Sometimes I forget to pray,” one long-
                                           There are seven gates at the walled Fug-  time elderly resident confessed to the
                                           gerei—yet only one has a doorbell and   Wall Street Journal.  “But some days I
                                           a night watchman.  And, as in medieval   pray extra if there's nothing good on
                                           times, the gates are locked at night—un-  television.”
                                           til 5 a.m.

                                           “At 10 p.m. all the gates are closed, just
                                           like in 1523,” notes guide Gast.  “If Fug-  WHEN YOU GO
                                           gerei residents need to come in after 10
                                           p.m., they must ring the bell and the   The Fuggerei: www.fugger.de/en/
                                           gate is opened by a doorman.  It costs   home.html
                                           .50 euro cents.  Or if they come in after
                                           midnight it costs 1 euro—more than the   Augsburg information:  www.augs-
                                           yearly rent of .88 euro cents!  This regu-  burg-tourismus.de/home-english.
                                           lation was probably enforced in order to   html
                                           protect the residents' security as well as
                                           preventing carousing.”              Germany Tourism information:  www.
                                                                               germany.travel
                                           Jakob  Fugger's  motto,  written  on  the
                                           church in the Fuggerei, was 'Carpe diem'  Historic Highlights of Germany:
                                           or 'use the time.'  He wanted to encour-  www.historicgermany.com
                                           age discipline.  Just as they still enforce
                                           this detail in Jakob Fugger's endow- German Rail Pass:  www.raileurope.
                                           ment letter, all of his other conditions   com
                                           and wishes are followed as well. For me,
                                           the Fuggerei is Jakob Fugger the Rich's   Photos and images Licensed under Public Domain via
                                           greatest legacy.”                   Wikimedia Commons.

                                           A bronze bust of Fugger, cast in 2007, is
                                           in the small Fuggerei park near the bun-




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