Page 117 - WINE DINE AND TRAVEL SPRING 2025 GRAND VOYAGE

Once our flat-bottomed boat glided
into the sprawling wetlands, my doubts
subsided. The estuary stretched out like a
muddied emerald labyrinth, framed by
mangroves and tall reeds swaying in the
warm breeze. Birds flitted overhead—
some skimming the water, others, includ-
ing an eagle, perched like sentinels on
bare branches.
And then we saw the crocodile.
The captain slowed the boat near
what looked like a driftwood log resting
on the riverbank. But this “log” blinked
and slowly opened its massive jaws. It re-
garded us lazily, and unimpressed, re-
sumed its nap.
Further along, we spotted clusters of
hippos, their broad heads breaking the
water’s surface like submerged boulders.
St. Lucia’s estuary is home to over 800
hippos, the largest population in South
Africa. They remained mostly still, occa-
sionally exhaling in deep grunts. A new-
born clung to its mother—a truly
remarkable sight.
Later, as we observed a large pod, the
alpha male, an imposing bull, kept a
watchful eye on his harem and calves. Ev-
ery so often, one yawned, baring teeth so
massive they looked capable of snapping
a tree in half.

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